Interview with Canadian Fashion Designer Angela Chen

Angela Chen F/W 2011
Photo by George Pimmentel

When I saw Canadian fashion designer's Angela Chen's Fall-Winter 2011 presentation at LG Fashion Week, I was struck by her bold combination of chunky knitwear with delicate fabrics like tulle. It was paradoxically cozy and delicate at the same time and reminded me of ballerina dancers in rehearsal with their sweaters and knitwear piled on for warmth. It was this successful pairing of hard and soft elements that led me to seek out an interview with Angela.

Ingrid: It seems to me that you took bigger risks with this collection in moving beyond classical elements into more daring and bolder design work. Would that be an accurate assessment?

Angela: Yes. This season I was really inspired by contemporary artist Jonathan Lasker and his brushstroke technique. Jonathan likes to play with form and this influenced my decision to knit.  With knits I can incorporate both thick and thin yarns to create unique shapes that are heavily texturized. My collection captures bright white against black to achieve a bold contrast similar to Jonathan’s use of pop colours against neutral backdrops. I love his artistic technique and his ability to use erratic brush strokes to play with shape. I drew on his use of repetition and freehanded lines when I knit my Fall collection. This season my collection is titled Sleep & Poetry, which is also a partial title of a Lasker book of drawings and poems, and a poem by John Keats.

Ingrid: Almost all the pieces in this collection seem to have a knitwear element. Was this a conscious decision to move to focus your strengths and something that you enjoy?

Angela: Knitting has become one of my signature styles. I love the art of knitting because it allows me to manipulate yarn so I can play with different silhouettes, create repetition and weave abstract lines, similar to what Jonathan is able to accomplish with his sporadic brushstrokes and use of abstract forms in his artwork. 

Angela Chen FW Collection 2011
Photo by George Pimmentel

Ingrid: How did you begin your design process for this particular collection? Did you sketch it out first or just pick up the knitting needles?

Angela: I knew that I wanted to incorporate a lot of knits into my FW2011 collection. I sketched dozens of knitwear ideas down on paper before I picked up the knitting needles. When it came time to pick up the knitting needles I didn’t put them down until right before the show!  

Ingrid: I was particularly drawn to your tulle skirts. Is this the first time you've worked with tulle?

Angela: This was my first time incorporating tulle tutus into a collection. I decided to use tulle because I enjoyed how the chunky knit mixed with the tulle to create a hard and soft contrast, similar to Jonathan’s paintings.  Tulle and yarn allowed me to create texturized layers and shapes, which is why I incorporated them both into my collection. Jonathan really inspired me to play with form and contrast. The wool yarn I used had hints of mohair in it, which is a light-weight yarn; my outfits had to appear big and chunky but be light enough to wear and I think incorporating the tulle skirts emphasizes the weightlessness of the collection. 

Ingrid: In our previous interview, you mentioned that you hand-knit all the chunky sweaters yourself. Was that also true this time? If so, how do you envision this going into production?

Angela: It’s true! All the knits in my FW2011 collection were hand-knit by me. For the production of my knitwear I contacted a fashion office in Hong Kong that connected me to a factory in Shenzhen that specializes in knits. While most of my production is based in Vancouver, Shenzhen handles my knitwear pieces. I believe that building connections overseas is the first step in establishing OR as a global brand. 

Angela Chen FW 2011
Photo by George Pimmentel

Ingrid: Almost all the pieces were in black and white, except perhaps for the tulle skirt and the purple bustier. Why weren't they also in black or white? (I loved them in gold but just found it interesting that they weren't black or white).

Angela: I choose gold because I wanted to incorporate a pop of colour within my collection. I was influenced by Jonathan’s use of bright colours against a neutral backdrop in his paintings. Also, it is important for me to create a collection that is timeless; I chose to incorporate gold within my colour palette because gold will never go out of style.  

Ingrid: Please update me on where you are selling your collection now.

Angela: I am currently in talks with some stores in Toronto which I am very excited about. I also have OR selling in British Columbia and in Taiwan. Online my line is available at Moxsie Online Boutique and Etsy. 

Ingrid: What's next?

Angela: I would like to open a flagship OR by Angela Chen store in countries all over the world, starting with Canada of course! 

Angela Chen at LG Fashion Week 2011
Photo by George Pimmentel

Photos provided courtesy of Angela Chen via lotus leaf communications

LG Fashion Week

Angela Chen Winter 2010 by Ingrid Mida 

I'm supposed to be at LG Fashion Week: The Style of Power, but am instead stuck in bed nursing a bad case of bronchitis. Alas, I'll have to content in reading other press coverage like this article on Angela Chen in the National Post or watching the live stream of the shows here. After seeing this enchanting sneak peak video on youtube, my disappointment is huge. There is really nothing like being there!

Interview with Fashion Designer Angela Chen

Photo credit: Ingrid Mida 2010

After seeing Angela Chen's collection at Toronto's LG Fashion Week, I had lots of questions for this talented designer. Although she probably has not yet caught up on her sleep after such a hectic week, she kindly agreed to be interviewed.

Ingrid: How would you describe the woman who is the target customer for the Orange collection?

Angela: I want all women to feel confident, comfortable and stylish in my clothes. They are timeless pieces for every woman’s closet.

Ingrid: How do you begin your design process? Do you sketch out your collection first or work directly from fabric and a mannequin?

Angela: Each season is different. I may begin a season by drawing inspiration from things around me and then incorporating these ideas into sketches. Another season I may draw inspiration from fabrics.

Ingrid: What was your inspiration for this collection? Was there a particular mood or feeling you wanted to invoke?

Angela: This season’s collection is titled Contrast. It’s very much East Coast meets West Coast as I have lived in New York for the past seven years and I just recently decided to live bi-coastally between New York and Vancouver. My FW2010 collection reflects the hard, sophistication of New York and the soft, organic feel of the West Coast.

Ingrid: What was your favourite piece in the collection?

Angela: It’s really tough to pick a personal favourite as I have been looking at them all for so long. They all are like my babies! They are all my creations. But if I had to pick one, perhaps it would be the hand-knit chunky sweaters because they are so cozy and warm.

Ingrid: Are the knits a new exploration? Do you knit? 

Angela: Actually I hand-knit all the chunky sweaters myself! I always admired the art of knitting and the cosiness of knitted wear. I thought warm, cozy kits would be ideal for the Fall collection.

Ingrid: The softly draped skirt like pocket on the pant was a detail that I especially enjoyed since I often wear dresses over pants. Do you think this type of garment would work on all figure types?

Angela:  This collection was designed with classic silhouettes meant to make all women feel confident and beautiful. I think if you exuberate confidence and wear the clothing and not let the clothing wear you, then any type of garment will work for you.

Ingrid: The two embellished pieces in the collection (skirt and dress) seemed to be new elements in your work. I could not tell how this was done. What type of fabric did you use for these pieces and/or were the embellishments added afterwards?

Angela: The embellishments were hand-knit from shiny yarn mixed with sequence yarn.

Ingrid: If you could model your career after any designer, whose career path would you like to follow?

Angela: I love Givenchy for the classic elegance, and the fact that nothing extra is added for no reason. Stella McCartney’s clothes are so polished, and she has great attention to detail. She mixes soft and hard aspects the same way I do. And Sonia Rykiel always shows beautiful textures, she plays with volume. She is the Queen of Knits!

Ingrid: If your dreams come true, where will you be in ten years?

Angela: I hope to have the Orange by Angela Chen brand internationally recognized and hope to own an Orange flagship store in major cities all over the world.  

Ingrid: Where can the FW 2010 collection be purchased?

Angela: Check out my website.

Orange by Angela Chen Fall Winter 2010

From the moment the first model stepped onto the runway, I knew that Angela Chen was my kind of designer. An elegant silk blouse in cream and a draped black skirt is a staple in my wardrobe and I wanted to cheer.

The collection was a symphony of black, cream and gray, the wardrobe of many sophisticated urban women. Actually it reminded me of New York, where colour simply does not exist.

Although there was a variety of day and evening looks, I have to say my favourite pieces were for evening. There was a stunning skirt that I could see myself wearing to the opera or ballet.

And there was also a beautiful dress which should be in my closet.

It was a sophisticated, elegant and wearable collection.

LG Toronto Fashion Week

 Photo credit: LG Toronto Fashion Week Website

The sun in shining on Toronto during LG Fashion Week Beauty by L’Oréal Paris.  In its 12th year, this event brings together fashion designers, buyers, media and fans. And I can hardly wait to make my debut covering the Orange by Angela Chen show tomorrow afternoon. Angela is one busy girl and I've not been able to get a pre-show interview. But perhaps after she's caught up on her sleep, I'll be able to feature an interview here.

Orange by Angela Chen

My first invitation to Toronto Fashion Week came courtesy of Angela Chen, designer of the line OrangeNYC. Angela Chen was born in Taiwan, raised in Vancouver and graduated from the Parsons New School of Design in 2007.  If her previous collections are indicative of what I'll see in the fall/winter 2010 runway presentation, I will expect to see beautifully composed and sculpted outfits anchored in black. As an artist and writer, black is a huge staple in my wardrobe and I could see myself wearing many of the pieces from her prior collections. But I'll have to wait until March 30th to see for sure.