The 18th Century Back in Fashion

Maison Christian Dior (f/w 2004-2005 on left and f/w 2007-2008 on right)

The extreme silhouettes, elaborate trimmings, and pouf hairstyles of the French Court dress in the 18th Century have served as a rich source of inspiration for haute couture and ready to wear fashion designers like Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Azzedine Alaia, Alexander McQueen and others. In an exhibition called The 18th Century Back in Fashion at the Palace of Versailles, original garments from that period have been shown alongside the modern interpretations to demonstrate the influence of the 18th century on contemporary fashion.

Chanel Fall 2011 Couture

Chanel F/W 2011 Couture

If you could own one piece of couture, would you chose a Chanel tweed suit?

Karl Lagerfeld's most recent collection for Chanel Fall 2011 reinvents the tweed suit in a myriad of ways. Some of the suits separate into three pieces. Surface effects with sequins and shredded fabric also modernize the look. The palette is mostly gray, black and cream but is punctuated with begonia pink. Jaunty boater-like hats, scraps of lace over the eyes, fingerless gloves and boots complete the look for fall 2011.

Chanel F/W Couture 2011

Evening Gown from Chanel Couture F/W 2011

As fabulous as this collection was, it did strike me that even some of these young, gorgeous models looked - dare I say it - a tad dowdy.

Chanel Couture F/W 2011

With the heavy tweed, a boxy silhouette, and the ugliest part of the knee exposed above the boot, it made some models look matronly. Given that the target customer for these suits is probably much older, wider and heavier than the runway models, if you can afford one of these suits, be sure to make your choice carefully!

Chanel Couture F/W 2011

Photos courtesy of Style.com.

Chanel and Pre-revolutionary Fashion

If my fantasy calendar for 2011 had come true, I would be in Paris this week for the Spring 2011 couture collections. Alas I think my invitations must have been lost in the mail. But I didn't have to be there to drink in the elegance and simplicity of Chanel's spring couture collection.

Chanel Couture, Spring 2011

The Chanel spring 2011 collection by Karl Lagerfeld is mostly devoid of colour, with only a few outfits in subdued pastel colours of liliac, soft pink and light blue. The monochromatic silhouette is clean and sculptural with the typical Chanel flourishes and breath-taking beadwork. There are a multitude of daywear looks many including narrow legging-like trousers worn with skirted suits or tunics, a definite nod to the younger couture client. The shoes are refreshingly flat, many with a black cap.

Chanel Couture, Spring 2011

What I found to be most surprising about this fashion-forward collection is the allusion to pre-revolutionary fashion with the black ribbons worn around the neck by all the models. Every model on the runway wore this black ribbon although it was more prominent on the models with longer, swan-like necks.

Chanel Couture, Spring 2011

Chanel Couture, Spring 2011

Photo credits: Monica Feudi/Go Runway (sourced from Vogue's Style.com)

This black ribbon harkens back to pre-revolutionary fashion in France and evidence of that is seen in this 1785 sketch of Marie Antoinette which was sent by Count Axel Fersen to his sister Sophie in Sweden.

Drawing of Marie Antoinette about 1785, ink and color on paper

I wonder if Lagerfeld's ribbon necklace is a prediction of a fashion revolution to come.

Karl Lagerfeld Parcours de Travail

Schwarzkopf, Freja Beha by Karl Lagerfeld 2009

Fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld's work as a photographer is now on display at la Maison Europeenne de Photographie de Paris. This exhibition is titled  "Parcours de Travail" meaning "course work" in English. The portraits, fashion, landscape and architecture photos go back as far as 1987 when Lagerfeld picked up a camera and will be on display until October 31, 2010. Is there anything that KL cannot do?

la Maison Europeene de Photogaphie de Paris

5/7 roue de Paris

75004 Paris 4

Marie Antoinette and the Chanel Ready-to-Wear Collection for Spring 2010

John Galliano was not the only designer to be inspired by France's Fashion Queen this season. Karl Lagerfeld also took inspiration from Marie Antoinette's love for the simple life in creating an airy and whimsical collection for Chanel Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection. A version of Marie Antoinette's barnyard was constructed in the Grand Palais in Paris to present the collection.

Marie Antoinette adored flowers and when her husband Louis XVI acceded to the throne in 1774, he gave her the Petit Trianon. He is said to have told her "You are fond of flowers, so I give you this whole bouquet." She undertook the renovation of this sanctuary and a few years later created a hamlet nearby which included a farmhouse, a barn and a dairy among other buildings. She insisted on real animals to show her children and watched as the cows were milked and strawberries were picked. The milkmaid look (caraco a la polonaise) was popular around 1778-1779. 

It is this affinity for flowers and fabrics that appear homespun that I see in Karl Lagerfeld's designs for Chanel Spring 2010 Ready to Wear. Several of the models carry basket-like hand bags almost as if they'll be stepping off the stage to venture in the henhouse to collect eggs! 

Truthfully I thought it was a bit of a stretch to find the Marie Antoinette in this collection. But it was nice to see a lighter palette of colours in Chanel ready-to-wear.

Art Documentary: Chanel, A Film by Eila Herson and Roberto Gueria

I think the best gifts come as a surprise on an ordinary day, and to my utter delight and wonder, I received a Chanel themed gift which included three films about the life of Coco Chanel.  I randomly chose to view this art film documentary by Ella Hershon and Roberto Guerra called Chanel.

Although I already knew the basic factual elements of Chanel's life, this documentary included interviews with her as well as numerous photos from her archives. There are photos of her many handsome lovers, (and there were many!) In addition, the film includes extensive footage of a young Karl Lagerfeld analyzing Chanel's style using collages that he made from old magazines and newspapers. It was amusing to see him when he was still young, eager to impress and without his many affectations. 

Interspersed through the video are many quotes from Chanel. (If I've made any errors in transcription, they were unintentional.) These are the quotes from Coco Chanel which struck a chord for me:

Fashion is a reflection of the time.


Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.


Simplicity does not mean poverty.


Happiness is something that you sometimes find while doing something else.


Jewelery isn't made to make you look rich, it is there to adorn you.


Let them copy. My ideas belong to everyone.

Only those with no memory insist on originality.


For a woman who had no time for anything other than work and her lovers, she certainly had a lot to say!



Chanel
A film by Eila Herson and Roberto Guerra
Narrated by Diana Quick
Written and Edited by Richard Howorth
RM Arts 1986

The Muse

Photo of Jean Shrimpton by Cecil Beaton, 1964

The gala opening of the exhibition "Model as Muse" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Monday night was a convergence of the glitterati of the worlds of fashion and Hollywood. Presiding over the event was Marc Jacobs and his co-chair Justin Timberlake who welcomed Anna Wintour, Madonna, Kate Moss, Anne Hathaway, Lauren Hutton.... (to see photos and videos of the gala, check out www.style.com)

Curated by Harold Koda and Kohle Yohannan, the exhibit explores the relationship between high fashion and the evolving ideals of beauty as portrayed in the iconic models of 1947-1997. Models featured in the exhibition include: Dorian Leigh, Suzy Parker, Dovima, Jean Shrimpton, Veruschka, Twiggy, Jerry Hall, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Champbell and others.

To me, what is really interesting is not the models themselves but the concept of muse. What is a muse?

In classical mythology, muse refers to the nine daughters of Zeus and Mnemosyne who presided over the arts:
Calliope (epic poetry)
Clio (history)
Erato (lyric poetry)
Euterpe (music)
Melpomene (tragedy)
Polyhymnia (religious music)
Terpischore (dance)
Thalia (comedy)
Urania (astronomy)

(I suppose since painting and sculpture are not included here, that my artwork must fall into the category of tragedy!!!)

In more common usage, a muse is someone (sometimes referred to as a goddess!!!) who has the power to inspire an artist.

For May's issue of Vogue, Hamlish Bowles interviewed Marc Jacobs on his creative process. Jacobs said that "A collection is just that -- a collection of thoughts, ideas, and experiences, trials and errors, editing and adding. It's something that unfolds." And for each collection, at some point in that process, a muse emerges. "So whether it is Kate Moss or Winona Ryder, it's the imperfection that I find so beautiful. The flaw, their Achilles heel, is as interesting as the perfection."

In the book "The Beautiful Fall, Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris", I learned that Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent relied heavily on their inner circle of favourite models and friends to inspire their creations. Lagerfeld was especially heartless in that he would use people until they no longer served his creative purposes. "The members of his shifting entouage were there to provide information, energy, laughter, ideas, and significantly, youth, and they were replaced when they no longer fulfilled these criteria" (page 310).

My muse is the goddess of fashion. As ephemeral as she may be, she is a wellspring of beauty and delight.

Who is your muse?

Book Review: The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris

Title: The Beautiful Fall, Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris
Author: Alicia Drake
Publisher: Back Bay Books, New York, 2006
Category: Non-fiction, Fashion, History
Number of Pages: 439
Price: US$14.99, Canada $17.25 (Paperback)

What it is about:
The lives and careers of Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent were intertwined from the moment they both stood on the stage to receive their awards in the 1954 International Wool Secretariat fashion design competition. Yves Saint Laurent, aged eighteen and recently arrived from Algeria, was the winner of first and third prizes in the dress category. Karl Lagerfeld, aged twenty-one from Hamburg, was winner of the coat category. From that point, Laurent and Lagerfeld were friends and rivals as their careers and lives evolved in the heady world of Parisian haute couture.

The story of the rivalry between these two iconic designers is written chronologically and the book spans the period 1954-1989. The pawn in the game between the two men was the bon vivant Jacques de Bascher. In the course of his short life, Jacques traveled between the two rival fashion camps, wrecking havoc in his wake with his affair with Yves Saint Laurent and troubled relationship with Lagerfeld.

Why I Chose this book:
It was recommended as an excellent chronicle of the 1970s fashion scene in Paris.

Favourite Passage:
"It is a grim moment for the designer when he or she finds himself or herself totally out of fashion, left behind, out of synch as time moves on. A new generation is born and the designer's vision or creative expression no longer describes or evokes the time around them. This is a creative pain unique to fashion. Of course there are trends and moods in every art form, the recent dominance of conceptual art being an obvious example. But a painting, even if it is not fashionable, can still possess its own intrinsic artistic and creative merit. Whereas one of the defining qualities of fashion is that it should describe its epoch and the desires of that moment." (page 291)

Rating:
This title of this book is a misnomer because it doesn't even hint at the scandal contained within the pages. The author has constructed shocking portraits of two of the 20th centuries greatest designers.

I was stunned by the story as it unfolded. There was so much genius, so much debauchery and so much animosity. Even though I have written extensively about Yves Saint Laurent on my fashion blog, I had little knowledge of his personal life until I read this book.

I was horrified by the degree to which Lagerfeld has manipulated and refashioned his life story to suit his purposes. The fact that Lagerfeld filed a legal writ against the author in 2006 claiming invasion of privacy, which was denied by the court, is proof of the explosive nature of the material contained in this book. No doubt the author's meticulous research and documentation (extensive footnotes and interview lists are included in the book) served her well in court.

The only weak part of the book are the title and the cover image. The rest of it is sizzling hot!

More Mad Hats from the Paris Runway

I find it amusing that as soon as I took notice of hats, they are everywhere, including the Paris runway shows. Peek back at my post from Friday for a look at the curious hunting-style caps at Dior by John Galliano.

Karl Lagerfeld included these amusing hats in last week's runway shows in Paris for Chanel (did you know that Coco Chanel began her career as a milliner?)




Photo credit: NYMag.com

Don't they remind you of the Mad Hatter?

Barbie's 50th Birthday!!!

Today is Barbie's 50th birthday! Happy Birthday Barbie!

I'm not ashamed of being a Barbie fan. I have many fond memories of playing with Barbie, and making her clothes. I longed to own a store-bought Barbie outfit, especially a beautiful emerald green gown with a strapless bodice and a poufy skirt made of tulle that my best friend owned. Years later, when I went to the toy museum in Prague, I chuckled when I saw that same emerald green gown on display.

It is astounding how many fashion designers have cited Barbie as their first muse, client, inspiration. During the recent New York fashion week, Barbie was celebrated with a line-up including Anna Sui, Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Marchesa, Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfinger. Christian Louboutin designed a pair of peep-toe hot pink pumps in honour of her birthday.

Even the revered Karl Lagerfeld has created an exhibition using Barbie as his muse at the Collette stores in Paris (213 Rue Saint-Honore, Paris, 75001). This exhibition called "Barbie and Ken by Karl Lagerfeld" will be on display from March 9 to 28th.