Pulp Fashion, the Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave

Pulp Fashion at the Legion of Honor
Photo by Ingrid Mida 2011

The Legion of Honor, Museum of Fine Art is currently showing a retrospective exhibition of paper dress sculptures by Isabelle de Borchgrave. These recreations of costume, which have been inspired by paintings, photographs, museum archives, and literary works, are made entirely out of paper that is painted, manipulated and glued to mimic the look of fabric, lace, trim and gems. The exhibition presents a retrospective of Isabelle de Borchegrave's work as a paper artist over the past 15 years. Divided into six sections including a recreation of her studio, the exhibition is a marvel from beginning to end. . As well,  textiles and objects from the museum's collection have been displayed alongside adding historical references and context to her work.

Elizabethan gown by Isabelle de Borchegrave
 Photo: Andreas von Einsiedel

Papiers a la Mode includes Isabelle's earliest work which were created in collaboration with Canadian costume designer Rita Brown and previously exhibited in a show by that name. The gowns in this room include iconic pieces from costume history, including the Elizabethan gown shown above as well as gowns by Worth, Poiret and Chanel.

In White presents eight gowns constructed out of white paper to illustrate the changes in silhouette in women's fashions over history.

The Fortuny Room, which includes a recreation of an exhibition tent from the 1911 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs in Paris,  was inspired by the work of the Spanish born fashion designer Fortuny. The tent is an exotic creation with a mystical sensibility that highlights Isabelle's great skill with paper and provides a total immersion into the Fortuny oeuvre.

The Medici Room which includes life-size recreations of the women and children of the Medici family was  based on historical paintings. Some of Isabelle's most extraordinary work is featured in this room. The eye-popping details of lace ruffs, jewelery and rich fabrics have been meticulously crafted and bring to life costumes that otherwise only exist in paintings.

Inspiration includes the recreation of five new costumes inspired by four paintings in the museum's collection. 

To see more photos and read a more detailed review of this exhibition, see my article in the online journal Fashion Projects.

Pulp Fashion, the Art of Isabelle de Borchegrave continues its run at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco until June 5, 2011. 

A Palace of Art on the Pacific

Portrait of Anne, Vicountess Townsend by Sir Joshua Reynolds
Collection of the Legion of Honor
Photo by Ingrid Mida, copyright 2011

Perched on the edge of the Pacific Ocean in San Francisco is a palatial museum called the Legion of Honor. Home to an extraordinary collection of paintings and decorative objects from the 17th to 20th century, this Louvre-like palace and grounds is host to a retrospective exhibition by the Belgian artist Isabelle de Borchgrave.

Courtyard of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco
Photo by Ingrid Mida copyright 2011

Although I went out to the museum to see Isabelle de Borchegrave's paper dress sculptures, the museum itself was so noteworthy that I thought it deserved a separate post. With a dazzling collection of paintings and decorative objects and set on expansive grounds, I was decidedly content to spend the entire day there. At one point, I felt a little bit like I was stepping back in time to the 18th century when I encountered Marie Antoinette's canape a la ture (sofa).

Queen Marie Antoinette's sofa in the Legion of Honor
Photo by Ingrid Mida copyright 2011

This royal sofa, which was originally gilded, was commissioned by Queen Marie Antoinette for a niche in her apartments in the palace of Versailles. It subsequently was owned by the King's sister, Madame Elizabeth, who replaced the gilding with the more up-to-date neoclassical scheme of white and gold. It was sold during the French revolution to Gouverneur Morris, American Ambassador to France at the time.

Portrait of Hycaninthe Gabrielle Roland by Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun
Collection of the Legion of Honor
Photo by Ingrid Mida, copyright 2011

This museum is home to an astonishing number of 18th century masterworks including Fragonard, Boucher and Watteau as well as Marie Antoinette's favourite portrait painter, Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun. Not limited to this period, there are also galleries with more contemporary works by Renoir, Rodin, Picasso and other artists.

If you find yourself hankering for Paris but live on the west coast of the USA, this museum is the next best thing! My next post will be about the Legion of Honor's special exhibition called Pulp Fashion, the Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave. 

Pulp Fashion Poster at the Legion of Honor
Photo by Ingrid Mida, copyright 2011

Legion of Honor, Museum of Fine Art San Francisco
100 34th Ave
San Francisco, CA 94121
(415) 750-3677

What's on the Fashion Calendar for March?

The worlds of fashion and art have collided and there seem to be an unprecedented number of promising exhibitions on the calendar.

Worth Evening Gown and shoe by Isabelle de Borchgrave 2004
Photo by Andreas von Einsiedel
Courtesy of the Legion of Honor

Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave recently opened at the Legion of Honor Museum of Fine Arts in San Francisco. In this exhibition, over 60 paper sculptures from the studio of Isabelle de Borchgrave depict the history of costume. Taking inspiration from paintings, photographs, sketches and museum collections, this artist paints and manipulates paper to look like fabric, which is then styled into the dress silhouettes of the past.  I recall seeing her work in a show called Papier a la Mode at the Royal Ontario Museum  and I've been a fan ever since. In fact, I often revisit her exquisite work inside the beautiful book Paper Illusions, The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave. 

In Los Angeles, the Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915 exhibition at LACMA will close at the end of the month. This exhibition examines the changes in fashionable dress over a period of  two hundred years and considers the evolution in textiles, tailoring techniques, and trimmings in the presentation of the museum's relatively recent acquisition of a major European collection. With an incredibly beautiful book filled with breath-taking photos, I'm almost breathless with anticipation at finally getting there.

Also in Los Angeles is the unpretentious FIDM museum where there is an exhibition of  the 19th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design . The Academy award winning costumes from Alice in Wonderland by Collen Atwood are included in the exhibition as are costumes from The Kings' Speech, The Kids are Alright, The Tempest and other movies from 2010.

Installation shot of Punk Garments, 1977-78
From Zandra Rhodes: a life in textiles
Photo by Anthony Scoggins
Courtesy of the Mingei Museum

And of course, there is the exhibition of Zandra Rhodes: A Lifelong Affair with Textiles at the Mingei Museum. This iconic textile artist, fashion designer and costumer will be speaking about her opera costume and set design work on March 19th in San Diego.

Textiles are the first step of the process of creation for designer Yoji Yamamoto.  He once said "Fabric is everything". Using a variety of traditional Japanese techniques and other more common weaves such as gabardine and tweed, Yamamoto has all his fabrics made in Japan to his own specifications. He became internationally renowned for his unconventional designs that incorporate unusual pattern cutting and often seem oversized, unfinished, non-gender specific, or constructed out of non-traditional fabrics like felt or neoprene.  Yoji Yamamoto retrospective at Victoria and Albert Museum opens March 12.

So many places to be, so little time....