Crinolines and corsets are back....Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013

In Sarah Burton's exploration of the feminine silhouette for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013, the body has been transformed by the extraneous supra-structures of the crinoline and corset. Playing with transparency and concealment, Burton has carved out a wasp-waisted, hyper-feminine look, reminiscent of the crinoline craze in the mid-19th century and Dior's New Look in the mid-20th century.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013

The designer said: “The collection is a study of femininity. We looked at erotica. Vargas girls, cages, corsets and crinolines and the idealisation of the female form. Nothing is set in a particular period. It’s about sensuality and skin but not nudity. We also wanted to express lightness, for the clothes almost to hover over the women who wear them.”

Anna, Stella and Sarah at Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Sarah Burton, Stella McCartney and Anna Wintour at the Press Preview for Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

There seems to be a little bit of confusion as to where I was on Monday. I am a fashion scholar, not a fashionista and I did not attend the Costume Institute Gala at the Met.  But I was at Monday's press preview for Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, attending as the reporter for Fashion Projects.

The speakers that morning included Metropolitan Museum of Art director Thomas P. Campbell, curator of the exhibition Andrew Bolton, as well as Stella McCartney and Sarah Burton. Anna Wintour, although present at the event, did not speak (and yes she had her sunglasses in her hand).

Stella McCartney at the Press Preview for Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at the Met

Stella McCartney, who was co-chair of the gala event in the evening, said "the mind, the hand and the artistry (of McQueen's work) are breathtaking".  In her poignant comments, she honored both his memory and their friendship,  citing the many parallels between their careers.

Sarah Burton at the Press Preview for Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at the Met

Sarah Burton, who is no doubt exhausted after her work on the royal wedding, said only a few sentences about her work with Lee describing him as a "genius" who had incredible "passion and attention to detail". She also said that she was "proud to have worked with him".

As is probably evident from my photos, I had front row seats during the presentation. There were literally hundreds of press in attendance and it was really memorable to be part of the opening of this extraordinary exhibition that celebrates the rare genius of Lee Alexander McQueen.

Over the next week or so, I will post selections of the many photos I took inside the exhibition as well as a review of the exhibition catalogue. To read my review of the exhibition itself, please visit Fashion Projects at  www.fashionprojects.org or click here.

Make it McQueen Times Two

The Duchess of Cambridge and The Duchess of Cornwall before the Wedding Supper

One McQueen was not enough. The Duchess of Cambridge chose to change into another exquisite McQueen gown for the wedding supper. With her hair down, a jewel encrusted belt and an angora bolero sweater, she looks like a happy bride ready to party.
While neither gown really looks like the avant-garde stuff of a McQueen runway show, no doubt both gowns have the details of workmanship and tailoring that define the McQueen label.
Sarah Burton must be ready to collapse with exhaustion. She only has a few days to recover before the Costume Institute gala and the official opening of the McQueen exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art  on Wednesday. The Met blog is up and running if you want a sneak peak before my review. Check it out here.

Make it McQueen

Sarah Burton adjusting the dress

It was elegant, it was tasteful and it was McQueen.

According to the official press release, "Miss Middleton chose British brand Alexander McQueen for the beauty of its craftsmanship and its respect for traditional workmanship and the technical construction of clothing.  Miss Middleton wished for her dress to combine tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterises Alexander McQueen’s work.  Miss Middleton worked closely with Sarah Burton in formulating the design of her dress."

The happy couple

I have to applaud Miss Catherine Middleton,  not only for her choice of gown but also for her incredible grace, poise and elegance. While she seemed to be channeling Grace Kelly, she clearly is a modern woman who knows her mind and I look forward to watching her bring a fresh sensibility to the royal family.

The royal bride's choice of McQueen sets the stage for next week's upcoming McQueen retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I'll be attending the press preview of Savage Beauty on Monday morning and filing my review for Fashion Projects soon thereafter. Stay tuned!

What Will She Wear?

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, F/W 2011

THE question that is on everyone's lips is What will she wear? She refers,  of course, to the bride of the decade, Miss Catherine Middleton. Speculation is running high that this Cinderella fairy princess story will have the bride of Prince William walking down the aisle in a gown by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. 

I'm not normally a gal that takes a bet, but given the queenly inspiration of the Fall/Winter 2011 McQueen show, it seems like a sure thing. And it would be a such a fitting tribute to the man, the label, Sarah Burton and British fashion. But I guess I'll have to wait until the morning of April 29th to find out if I'm right.

What will she wear?
Courtesy of the Fashion Museum in Bath, England

What will she wear? is also the title of an exhibition in celebration of wedding fashion at The Fashion Museum in Bath, England. Thirty exquisite white, cream, and ivory wedding dresses were selected from the museum's extensive collection are currently on display. Although many of the gowns are over 100 years old, there is a white lace wedding dress with an asymmetric hem by Alexander McQueen which was worn in Summer 2010.

Rosemary Harden, Manager of the Fashion Museum said "we are aiming to show the richness and variety of the white wedding dress down the ages, as well as the enduring romance of the traditional style." Also on display are a selection of framed sepia photographs of wedding couture dresses, which are part of a previously unseen archive by the Paris House of Worth.

What will she wear?
Courtesy of the Fashion Museum in Bath, England